Plan First: Timing Is Everything
The Magdalen Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) reward travellers who plan ahead. Book accommodations and the CTMA ferry well in advance—ideally a year out for peak summer. Ferry schedules are strict: arrive at least one hour before departure, as vehicle loading starts early. Pets are welcome (exterior deck pee pads), and the onboard kitchen serves two daily meals that line up with the direction of travel.
Pro tip for solo travellers: Aim for late spring (May–June) or early fall (September–October) for quieter roads, easier restaurant bookings, and softer light for photography.
Crossing the Gulf: The CTMA Ferry
Expect a comfortable 5+ hour crossing from Souris, PEI, and Cap-aux-Meules with reclining chairs over two levels, quiet nooks, and broad windows framing the horizon. The cafeteria serves breakfast, lunch, or dinner, depending on your sailing schedule. Everything was spotless on my trip, and the staff were genuinely proud of it. Cabins are available if you want extra rest; I chose to stay in the public areas to soak up the rhythm of the journey. CTMA Ferry Reservation
Basecamp Minutes from the Port: Château Madelinot
A short drive from the terminal, Château Madelinot makes arrival effortless. It’s a contemporary property with local art woven through its stairwells—don’t miss photographer Georges Poirier’s work. Facilities include an indoor pool, sauna, and gym, plus spacious rooms and a shared oceanside patio. On my last morning, a generous takeaway breakfast (easily shared by two) sealed the stay.
Bookings: 855-968-2211 (open year-round).
Dinner to Remember: Domaine du Vieux Couvent
At Domaine du Vieux Couvent, hospitality meets heritage. The lobby murals and warm welcome set the tone for a standout meal. I started with parmesan calamari—crisp, tender, and perfectly seasoned—then a sous-vide triangle steak that cut like butter. Portions are generous, flavours are focused, and the ocean views are the best pairing. On performance nights, expect a lively kitchen party atmosphere; I caught a set with PEI fiddler Richard Wood and friends—pure island joy.
Stay in Living History: Le Domaine du Vieux Couvent
Le Domaine du Vieux Couvent, built 1914–1918, this former convent blends historic bones (exposed walls, wood window frames, vintage tile sinks) with modern comforts (updated showers). A local artist on staff even sells her work, so you can bring home a piece of Magdalen’s creativity. Check their social channels for live music schedules—you don’t want to miss those nights.
Eat Where You Sleep: Le Bistro at Château Madelinot
Upstairs from the event space, Le Bistro pairs ocean views with a menu that surprises. Don’t miss the duck Benedict at brunch (rare on menus and superb), and their signature ribs at dinner with house salad. Hours change seasonally—check their website or social media before you go.
Fogged-In Photography: Making Weather the Subject
When fog, rain, and wind rolled in, I pivoted to a minimalist series: abandoned houses by the water, a blaze-orange cottage in the mist, a white church on a lonely roadside, and a single yellow home at a field’s edge. The Islands are a canvas—on grey days, colour sings louder.
Photo tip: In fog, meter for highlights and lean into negative space. Let colour blocks (a door, a buoy, a clapboard wall) anchor your composition.
Landscapes Between Squalls
When the fog lifted, the coastline revealed itself: lobster traps, weathered signs, and an abandoned boat resting in gold grass. I explored a quiet beach at day’s end—waves thundering under high winds, a single walker in the frame, and that wide, breathing calm you only get on islands.
For Adventurers: La Salicorne
La Salicorne is a budget-friendly base for hikers and paddlers, with hostel-style rooms, seasonal camping (~$15/night), a pub and restaurant, and 21 guided excursions (drive, hike, or paddle “Discover the Roads”). Some rooms face the bay; a few have clawfoot tubs. Staff are as welcoming as the dunes are wide.
A Whirlwind Adventure
My trip to the Magdalen Islands was a whirlwind. One moment, I was waking up on one side of the island, exploring its beauty throughout the day; the next, I was rolling out to catch the ferry home.
Although high winds stole a day from my adventure, the Islands left an unforgettable impression.
The Magdalen Islands are an absolute must-visit. While summer draws the crowds, I highly recommend late spring or early fall. These seasons offer quieter charm, more lodging availability, and the chance to savour local cuisine.
Spring invites you to stroll along empty beaches, watching the last snow patches melt as the Islands bloom again. Fall brings warm, sunny days and crisp evenings—perfect for gathering around a campfire and reflecting on the rhythm of island life.
Getting There from Ottawa
I flew Ottawa → Moncton with Porter, rented a car, and drove to the PEI ferry. Gas: approximately $175 for a small vehicle (for my trip). Rental rates vary; returning to the same pickup location is usually cheaper.
Ferry (high season 2025, user-reported):
- Vehicle: $110 per crossing
- Passenger: $59 per person, per way
- Book early; you’ll need passenger names at booking and check-in.
Dining: Reserve dinners and weekend brunches—summer fills quickly.
When to Go (and Why)
Summer is festive and busy. Late spring brings beaches to yourself and the island waking from winter. Early fall offers warm days, crisp evenings, and campfire skies—my favourite pairing for photography and quiet drives.
Why I Love the Magdalen Islands
Because the Islands teach you to slow down. Fog becomes a filter, wind writes the soundtrack, and colour tells the story. Even a lost day to weather gives something back—space to notice small houses, empty beaches, and the way light returns like a promise.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Islands
A: For July–August, aim 9–12 months ahead for both ferry and lodging. Shoulder seasons are more flexible, but still bookable several months in advance.
A: Yes. Distances are modest, but the best photography and beach spots are scattered.
A: Yes—exterior pee pads are provided. Confirm current rules when booking.
A: Build a buffer day. Fog and wind are common. Shift to villages, museums, cafés—or make the weather the subject of your photography.
A: Ferry + gas + lodging + meals: plan a mid-range budget; shoulder season lowers costs and crowds.
About the Author
Written & photographed by Roland Bast, TMAC travel photographer and storyteller. Roland documents authentic Canadian experiences—from coastal kitchens to cliff-edge trails—through people-first narratives and original photography.
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Weekend in Montreal
Disclosure: Trip supported by Québec Maritime and Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine. Opinions, photography, and experiences are entirely my own.
Foggy Magdaleine Islands On the Gram
