Intent: A high-efficiency guide for solo or couple travellers and business professionals on a 24-hour layover, focusing on airport-accessible highlights and local icons.
How do you get to the Magdalen Islands?
Most travellers arrive via the CTMA Ferry from Souris, PEI, to Cap-aux-Meules. In 2026, it is essential to book both the ferry and accommodations up to a year in advance for peak summer travel.
- Ferry Duration: 5+ hours (spotless facilities, reclining chairs, and cafeteria).
- 2026 Costs: Approximately $110 per vehicle and $59 per passenger (one way).
- Best Time for Photography: Late spring (May–June) or early fall (September–October) for softer light and quieter roads.
- Pets: Welcome on the ferry; exterior deck pee pads are provided.
Plan first: timing is everything. On my trip, the ferry schedule was strict—loading starts early, so arrive at least one hour before departure. I chose to stay in the public areas to soak up the rhythm of the journey rather than booking a cabin. The onboard kitchen serves two daily meals that perfectly line up with the direction of travel.
Read More: The Heritage of the Harvest
Beyond the red cliffs and rolling dunes lies a culture defined by the sea. In my deeper look at the islands, I explore Les Secrets de la Pêche Transmise aux Îles-de-la-Madeleine—a tribute to the multi-generational fishing traditions that still power the archipelago.
Where to Stay & Eat: My 2026 Basecamps
Château Madelinot (Cap-aux-Meules)
Just minutes from the port, this property makes arrival effortless. I spent my mornings here reviewing shots on the shared oceanside patio. Don’t miss the local art in the stairwells, especially the work of photographer Georges Poirier.
The Highlight: A generous takeaway breakfast that I found was easily enough for two. Château Madelinot
Dinner to Remember: Domaine du Vieux Couvent
Le Domaine du Vieux Couvent (Havre-aux-Maisons)
This is living history. Built between 1914–1918, it blends exposed historic walls with modern comforts. I stayed here to catch the kitchen party atmosphere—I was lucky enough to see PEI fiddler Richard Wood.
The Meal: The sous vide triangle steak at the bistro cut like butter. If you’re there for brunch, the duck Benedict is a must.
Stay in Living History: Le Domaine du Vieux Couvent
What is it like to stay in a converted convent? Le Domaine du Vieux Couvent, built between 1914 and 1918, is a masterclass in heritage preservation. It blends historic bones—think exposed brick, wood window frames, and vintage tile sinks—with modern luxuries like updated walk-in showers.
- Vibe: Creative and historic. There is even a local artist on staff who sells her work directly from the property.
- Don’t Miss: Their Kitchen Party nights. Check their social channels for live music schedules—catching a set here is the peak island experience.
I found the atmosphere here incredibly grounding. It’s the kind of place where the architecture tells a story before you even check in. My favourite detail was the vintage tile sink in my room; it’s a small touch, but it connects you to the building’s 100-year history in a way a modern hotel never could.
Eat Where You Sleep: Le Bistro at Château Madelinot
Upstairs from the event space, Le Bistro pairs ocean views with a menu that surprises. Don’t miss the duck Benedict at brunch (rare on menus and superb), and their signature ribs at dinner with house salad. Hours change seasonally—check their website or social media before you go.
The Photography Perspective: Making Weather the Subject
When the fog, rain, and wind rolled in, I didn’t stop; I pivoted to a minimalist series. The islands are a canvas—on grey days, colour sings louder. My focus shifted to a single yellow home at a field’s edge and an abandoned boat resting in gold grass.
Pro Tip: In heavy fog, meter for your highlights and lean into negative space. Let a single colour block—a red door or a bright buoy—anchor your frame.
Landscapes Between Squalls
When the fog lifted, the coastline revealed itself: lobster traps, weathered signs, and an abandoned boat resting in gold grass. I explored a quiet beach at day’s end—waves thundering under high winds, a single walker in the frame, and that wide, breathing calm you only get on islands.
For Adventurers: La Salicorne
La Salicorne (Grande-Entrée)
For a more rugged adventure, this is a budget-friendly base. It has a bit of a “summer camp for adults” vibe.
The Experience: They offer 21 guided excursions. I found the staff as welcoming as the dunes are wide.
The Reality of the “Whirlwind”
My trip was a whirlwind of waking up on one side of the island and rolling out to catch the ferry on the other. High winds actually stole a day from my adventure, but that’s the reality of island life. The Magdalen Islands teach you to slow down. Even a lost day to the weather gives something back—space to notice the small houses and the way the light returns like a promise.
Getting There from Ottawa
How do you reach the islands from Ontario? The most efficient route is a “Fly-Drive-Ferry” combo. I flew Ottawa → Moncton with Porter, rented a car, and drove across the Confederation Bridge to the PEI ferry terminal in Souris.
Note: Rates have been reduced by 50% for 2026; always confirm at the time of booking.
Fuel: Approximately $175 CAD for a small vehicle (round trip).
Rental Tip: Returning the car to the same pickup location in Moncton is significantly cheaper than a one-way rental.
2026 CTMA Ferry Rates (One-Way): * Vehicle: ~$55 CAD (High Season)
Adult Passenger: ~$30 CAD (High Season)
When to Go (and Why)
Summer is festive and busy. Late spring brings beaches to yourself and the island waking from winter. Early fall offers warm days, crisp evenings, and campfire skies—my favourite pairing for photography and quiet drives.
Why I Love the Magdalen Islands
The Islands teach you to slow down. Out here, fog becomes a natural filter, the wind writes the soundtrack, and colour tells the story. Even when the weather “stole” a day of my adventure, it gave something back—the space to notice the small houses, the empty beaches, and the way light returns to the coast like a promise. It’s a place where the mishaps are just as memorable as the views.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Islands
A: For July–August, aim 9–12 months ahead for both ferry and lodging. Shoulder seasons are more flexible, but still bookable several months in advance.
A: Yes. Distances are modest, but the best photography and beach spots are scattered.
A: Build a buffer day. Fog and wind are common. Shift to villages, museums, cafés—or make the weather the subject of your photography.
A: Ferry + gas + lodging + meals: plan a mid-range budget; shoulder season lowers costs and crowds.
About the Author
Roland Bast is a Canadian travel photographer and destination storyteller based in Ottawa. A past member of TMAC, Roland documents authentic Canadian experiences—from coastal kitchens to cliff-edge trails—through people-first narratives and original photography. Written & photographed by Roland Bast
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Beautiful Tadoussac: Whales, Nature & Culinary Experiences
Disclosure: Trip supported by Québec Maritime and Tourisme Îles de la Madeleine. Opinions, photography, and experiences are entirely my own.
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