Bonavista: My First Discovery on the Eastern Shore
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More Than a Visit—An Experience
Bonavista was one of my first discoveries along the Eastern Shore and left a lasting impression. Here’s how my trip unfolded.
I booked an Airbnb with Johanna, though finding her driveway took a minute. Then, through the trees, I spotted the pinkish building.
From the start, her hospitality stood out. Her warm welcome, spacious room, and attention to the small details made it clear that she was a professional. She pre-booked our whale and iceberg tour before we even arrived.
Morning came with the rich aroma of coffee filling her 5,000-square-foot home—once a recreational center, now beautifully restored. Breakfast was unforgettable: moose meat, turkey patties, fresh bread, and blueberry pancakes topped with local partridgeberry jam. (It is also called lingonberry in other parts of the world.
This is why I keep coming back to Newfoundland. The people don’t just welcome you; they bring you into their story.
Image Credit: Canada Map
Dress for the Changing Weather
Be prepared for Newfoundland’s ever-changing weather conditions. Fog can roll in anytime, as shown in the image below. It was taken the morning after our late arrival in St. John’s. Before heading to Bonavista, we stopped at Signal Hill and Quidi Vidi. From there, we continued our journey to Elliston, Port Rexton, and Johanna’s AIRBNB in Bonavista.
My tip: Pack layers. Expect sunny skies in the afternoon, possibly rain by the evening, especially during your tours.
Arriving on the Rock
When arriving in St. John’s or Gander, both airports are over three hours away from Bonavista. Reserve your car beforehand—I’m talking about three months or more. Here’s a tip to save money: drop it off at the exact airport location. Pack suitably; the weather can change drastically, and layers can always be adjusted.
Moving around the Island,
After Bonavista, here is a 3-7 day guide for Eastern Newfoundland with your stays in St. John’s.
3-7 day guide, home base St. John’s
5 Whale Adventures in Eastern Newfoundland
7-Day Central Newfoundland Guide
Travel Time from St. John’s or Gander Airport:
St. John’s to Bonavista – 301 km (about 3.5 to 4 hours drive)
Bonavista to Elliston – 6 km (about 10-minute drive)
Elliston to St. John’s – 295 km (about 3.5 to 4 hours’ drive)
Gander to Bonavista – 250 km (about 3 hours drive)
Bonavista Airbnb with Johanna
- Type: Shared Accommodation with Private Bathrooms
- Highlights: A 5-star super host offering a warm and welcoming stay. Includes breakfast and access to Johanna’s extensive local connections for tours and activities.
Direct booking options: email [email protected] - Website: Airbnb Listing
Russelltown Inn
- Type: Bed & Breakfast
- Location: 134 Coster Street, Bonavista, NL
- Highlights: A charming inn offering restored heritage homes with modern comforts, located in some of Bonavista’s most charming neighbourhoods.
- Website: https://www.russelltowninn.com/
Lancaster Inn B&B
- Type: Bed & Breakfast
- Location: 219 Confederation Drive, Bonavista, NL
- Highlights: A 4-star inn known for its stylish and comfortable accommodations, delicious home-cooked breakfasts, and proximity to local attractions.
- Website: https://www.facebook.com/p/Lancaster-Inn-BB-100083021396852/
The Meems’ Elliston B&B
- Type: Bed & Breakfast
- Location: Elliston, NL (just outside Bonavista)
- Highlights: A cozy B&B with ocean views and scenic hiking trails close to the Puffin Viewing Site.
- Website: https://www.themeems.ca/
The Harbour Quarters Inn
- Type: Boutique Hotel & Inn
- Location: 42 Campbell Street, Bonavista, NL
- Highlights: A beautifully restored heritage property offering waterfront views, an on-site restaurant, and modern amenities in a historic setting.
- Website: http://www.harbourquarters.com
Bonavista is where history, adventure, and jaw-dropping coastal scenery collide. Whether you’re into hiking or geology, this town has something for you. You can enjoy wildlife spotting, whale watching, or a boat tour for Icebergs or soak in the small-town charm. This town and its surrounding areas have it all.
***** Johanna from the AirBNB provided most of this information. Johanna is the book of knowledge for Bonavista, NL.
Outdoor Adventures & Natural Wonders
📍 Hike Discovery – Love exploring on foot? The Hike Discovery trail system offers Newfoundland’s most scenic coastal hikes. Whether you want a casual stroll or a rugged trek, the views will not disappoint.
*📍 Discovery Geopark – If you’re fascinated by geology, this UNESCO-recognized geopark is a must. Walk among 500-million-year-old fossils, rugged cliffs, and ancient rock formations that tell the story of the Earth’s past.
**📍 Elliston: Puffins & Root Cellars – Elliston is called the Root Cellar Capital of the World. It is home to over 135 historic root cellars. But the real stars? The puffins. It’s one of the best places in Newfoundland to see them up close!
*📍 Scenic Drives & Coastal Views – Every turn in and around Bonavista offers awe-inspiring coastal landscapes. From dramatic cliffs to peaceful beaches, get your camera ready—this place is stunning.
*📍 Cape Bonavista & Lighthouse Tour – Stand on the edge of North America at Cape Bonavista. Explore the historical lighthouse. Pro Tip: The sunsets here? Unreal. (Header photo)
📍 Mockbeggar Plantation House – Step back at this restored 19th-century estate. It showcases Newfoundland’s fishing heritage. It also highlights political history.
*📍 Long Beach Walk: Take a relaxing walk along the shoreline. Breathe in the salty ocean air. Watch for whales and icebergs (depending on the season).
*📍 Church Street: Shops, Restaurants, & The Garrick Theatre – Bonavista’s main strip is full of local shops. It has cozy cafés. There are must-visit restaurants.
📍 The Matthew Legacy – A full-scale replica of John Cabot’s ship. The Matthew sits in Bonavista, marking where the explorer landed in 1497. It’s a fascinating stop for history buffs.
*📍 Ryan Premises National Historic Site – Learn about Newfoundland’s rich cod fishing history in this beautifully preserved merchant premises.
Get Screeched In at Mainlanders Pub – Become an Honorary Newfoundlander!
If you’re heading to Bonavista, don’t miss your chance to get screeched in—a time-honoured Newfoundland tradition that’s as fun as it is unforgettable.
At Mainlanders Pub, you’ll be welcomed like one of their own. Call 709-218-7955 to book your spot and prepare for a night of laughs, legends, and local flair. You’ll hear tales about the famous Newfie steak, shoot Screech rum, nibble on pickles, kiss the cod (yes, the cod), and cap it off with a proper Newfie jig.
You’ll leave with a certificate—and bragging rights—as an honorary Newfoundlander.
This isn’t just a night out. It’s a rite of passage.
📍* Zodiac Boat Tour with Capt. Bob – Discovery Sea Adventure
Want to get up close and personal with whales, icebergs, seabirds, and puffins? Hop on a Zodiac tour and experience the ocean like never before. My friend and I took this tour—it was our first official boat tour to see an iceberg. Since then, I’ve done a dozen more iceberg tours, but this one still stands out.
We had the incredible opportunity to witness an iceberg resembling a giant horse saddle. As we got closer, we heard the “bang” of it breaking apart. It was an unforgettable moment! After the iceberg, we cruised along the seaside in search of puffins. Of course, a few guests in the back of the Zodiac were trying not to be seasick. I seized the moment for some great shots whenever the boat made a quick stop!
Pro Tip: If you’re prone to seasickness, bring Gravol—you won’t admit it, but it can make all the difference!
A Coastal Road Trip King’s Cove
📍 *Route 235 to King’s Cove & Keels.
Take a scenic drive to King’s Cove and explore the charming coastal community of Keels. This spot is straight out of a movie—literally! Keels has been featured in Maudie, Peter Pan, and the upcoming film King Tide. It’s one of my favourite places to visit, and once you experience it, you’ll see exactly why. The coastal vistas, colourful houses, and peaceful atmosphere make you feel like you’ve stepped into a postcard.
✔ Rich history – Walk where explorers once stood.
Incredible wildlife – Puffins, whales, seabirds—you name it.
✔ Unreal scenery – Dramatic cliffs, coastal trails, and epic sunsets.
Small-town charm – Friendly locals, cozy cafés, and unique shops.
Bonavista is so much more than a stop on your itinerary. You’ll want to return to this place again and again. Whether you come for the history, the landscapes, or the adventure, Bonavista will leave you speechless.
1. Bonavista Brewing Co.
📍 Location: 27-29 Church Street, Bonavista.
🍺 What They Offer: A local microbrewery with various craft beers served in a historic taproom.
Hours:
- Thursday & Friday: 4:00 pm – 10:00 pm
- Saturday: 12:00 pm – 10:00 pm
2. Port Rexton Brewing Co.
📍 Location: Port Rexton (a 30-minute drive from Bonavista).
🍺 What They Offer: A well-known craft brewery with a cozy taproom and a reputation for community events.
Bonavista is a year-round gem, but depending on what you want to see and do, certain seasons offer unique experiences.
Spring (April – June)
Spring is when Bonavista comes alive with nature’s grand show. Icebergs drift past the coast, creating breathtaking views, and as the capelin rolls in, so do the whales. This is prime time for photographers looking to capture dramatic landscapes and incredible wildlife encounters.
Summer (July – September)
Peak season brings warm weather, lively festivals, and a bustling waterfront. This is the best time for whale watching, as sightings are frequent. Boat tours, puffin spotting, and hiking the scenic coastline are must-dos. The town’s restaurants, gift shops, and historic sites are in full swing, making it the perfect season for first-time visitors.
Fall (September – October)
Looking for a quieter, more intimate Bonavista experience? Fall is your season. The summer crowds fade, leaving behind golden coastal landscapes and crisp ocean air. It’s a fantastic time for storm-watching, hiking, and photography. While many attractions start closing after Canadian Thanksgiving (mid-October), some stay open into early November.
Tourist Attractions & Seasonal Closures
- Boat Tours & Outdoor Activities – Most wrap up by early to mid-October.
- Galleries, Gift Shops & Cafés – Many close by Thanksgiving (some sooner), but a few stay open year-round.
- Historic Sites & Museums – Typically close by mid to late October.
📍 Mattea’s
Location: Bonavista, NL
Why Visit: Nestled on the wharf, Mattea’s is a must-stop for handmade local gifts and crafts. Named after John Cabot’s wife, this shop is rich in Newfoundland heritage.
📍 The Lovely Grand Home
Location: Bonavista, NL
Why Visit: A charming boutique offering curated home décor pieces with a cozy, Newfoundland touch.
📍 Historic Sites Association Gift Shop (Ryan Premises)
Location: Bonavista, NL.
Why Visit: This shop is located within the Ryan Premises National Historic Site. It is perfect for finding Newfoundland-inspired books, artwork, and souvenirs.
📍 Newfoundland Salt Company Shop
Location: Bonavista, NL
Why Visit: This shop is known for its locally produced sea salt. It is also famous for its sea salt caramels. Additionally, the shop carries products from small-scale Newfoundland artisans.
🔹 Tip: While most of these locations are open from May to mid-fall, exact opening dates vary. It’s always best to check ahead before visiting.
*Bonavista Social Club.
Type: Restaurant
Location: Upper Amherst Cove, NL (near Bonavista).
Highlights: They grow most of their farm-to-table vegetables and are famous for their wood-fired bread and pizza. Enjoy fresh pasta, a moose burger, and more. Take in the stunning ocean views. This is a must-visit for an authentic Newfoundland dining experience.
The Lovely Grand Bakeshop.
Location: Bonavista, NL
Why Visit: Homemade bread, fresh sandwiches, and comforting soups make this a must-visit spot. The cozy atmosphere adds to its charm.
Quintal Cafe
Type: Café
Location: 63 Church St, Bonavista, NL.
Highlights: A cozy spot known for its healthy dishes, fresh coffee, and welcoming atmosphere.
Two Whales Coffee Shop
Type: Coffee Shop & Café
Location: Site 4 Box 8, Port Rexton, NL (near Bonavista).
Highlights: A small, independent café serving vegetarian and vegan meals. It offers homemade cakes and great coffee, with a scenic view of Robin Hood Bay.
The Boreal Diner
Type: Restaurant
Location: 61 Church St, Bonavista, NL.
Highlights: A casual fine-dining restaurant in a restored heritage building featuring a diverse menu with locally sourced ingredients.
Skipper’s Restaurant
Type: Seafood Restaurant
Location: 42 Campbell Street, Bonavista, NL.
Highlights: It offers a broad menu of homemade, delicious meals, including Atlantic crab, local lobster, salmon, and mussels (seasonal).
MIFFLIN’S Tea Room
Type: Seafood, Healthy Cuisine
Location: 21 Church Street, Bonavista, NL.
Highlights: Known for its fantastic food and friendly staff, it offers a variety of seafood dishes in a cozy setting.
Ragged Rocks Gastropub
Type: Gastropub, Seafood
Location: Church Street, Bonavista, NL.
Highlights: They offer a variety of seafood dishes in a pub-style atmosphere.
- Bonavista is a photographer’s dream, offering dramatic landscapes, rich history, and incredible wildlife. Whether you shoot landscapes, wildlife, or cultural scenes, there’s no shortage of inspiration here.
- 📍* Cape Bonavista Lighthouse at Sunset
- The lighthouse perched on the edge of North America is an iconic shot.
- It is best captured during the golden hour when the red and white structure contrasts against the fiery sky.
- Don’t forget to turn around—the cliffs and rolling waves behind you are just as breathtaking.
- 📍 *Horses in the Rugged Fields
- Throughout Bonavista, you’ll find Newfoundland ponies grazing in coastal fields.
- Their windswept manes and dramatic backdrops make for stunning, moody shots.
- 📍 *Wharfs & Fishing Stages
- Bonavista’s fishing heritage is evident in its colourful wharves, stacked lobster traps, and weathered boats.
- Early mornings are ideal for capturing the fog rolling over the harbour, adding an atmospheric touch.
- 📍 ***Puffin Viewing Site in Elliston
- It is one of the best places in Newfoundland to photograph puffins up close.
- The peak season is mid-May to early September. Bring a zoom lens (300mm or more) for detailed shots. Staying away from the ledges will give the puffins space to land safely close enough for photography.
- Capture puffins in flight, interacting with each other, or posing dramatically against the ocean backdrop.
The image below is of Elliston, Puffin Colonies.
- 📍 Keels’ Rugged Coastline & Rock Formations
- This small fishing community offers dramatic rock formations shaped by the Atlantic’s force.
- The jagged coastline, sea stacks, and deep blue waters create moody cinematic compositions.
- Visit the “Devil’s Footprints,” a rock formation with ancient, fossil-like indentations.
- 📍 Icebergs & Whales (Seasonal Photography)
- Icebergs: Best seen from April to early June. Capture them along the coastline, from Cape Bonavista to Dungeon Provincial Park.
- Whales: Arrive in late June, with peak sightings in July and August. Zodiac boat tours offer the best chance for close-up shots of breaching humpbacks.
- Pro Tip: Use a polarizing filter to cut glare and enhance water contrast for the best iceberg and whale shots.
- 📍 *Root Cellars in Elliston
- These unique, turf-covered cellars make for striking rustic compositions.
- Try a wide-angle shot to emphasize the rolling landscape dotted with these traditional structures.
- 📍 *Church Street (Bonavista’s Main Street)
- It is a mix of historic buildings, colourful storefronts, and lively street scenes.
- Capture the charm of a small fishing town in Newfoundland with early morning light hitting the heritage homes and boats.
- 📍 Storm Watching on the Coastline (Fall & Winter)
- If you’re into dramatic weather shots, visit in the fall when the Atlantic shows its power.
- Long-exposure photography works well for capturing the movement of crashing waves.
- 📍 Night Sky & Astrophotography
- Bonavista has minimal light pollution, making it great for night photography.
- Capture the Milky Way over the lighthouse or dramatic star trails over the rugged coastline.
- 📸 Pro Tips for Shooting in Bonavista:
- ✔ Bring a variety of lenses—a wide-angle for landscapes, a telephoto for wildlife, and a prime lens for low-light shots.
- ✔ Newfoundland’s weather changes fast. Pack a rain cover for your gear and dress in layers.
- ✔ Golden hour and blue hour offer the most magical light—plan your shoots around sunrise and sunset.
- ✔ Always respect wildlife and give animals plenty of space—let the zoom lens do the work.
- Cape Bonavista Lighthouse at Sunset
- Puffin Viewing Site in Elliston
- Keels’ rugged coastline & rock formations
- Icebergs & whales (best times for sightings)
Conclusion
Thank you for joining me on this journey to Bonavista! I hope this itinerary inspires you to plan your next adventure in this stunning Newfoundland destination. ~Roland Bast Photo owns the copyright to all images in the itinerary. Activities marked with ** have been personally tested and enjoyed. Safe travels and happy exploring!
Roland Bast
